Breakaway switch

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gwander
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Breakaway switch

Wondering if I can get any advice, I'm an OK kind of handy man, i.e. I can figure basic things out and am probably about "average."

I realized since I have electric brakes that I should have a breakaway switch. I just orderd the Teknosha 2010-P as it was highly rated. I can figure out how to get it attached to the frame, seems basic enough, and also attach one wire to my scamp battery which I assume I just buy one of those circular connectors to use to slide it over the post. Again, I'll figure it out, seems pretty straight forward.

What I don't know is how I connect the other wire, where, and what too - i.e. it says something like splice it into the blue wire coming from the scamp for the brakes, where is the best place to do this and how do I do that? Anyone have any good pictures of how they actually did it on their scamp 13?

 

Thanks!

Randy
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Scamp wires

Hi GWander.  Sorry, I have no experience in installing one but Scamp has a help vid that talks about the wire colors and what they are for. https://youtu.be/1KmBZYXxADE

Hope that helps some.

Gordon2
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Break Away Switch

There are different ways to do it. On side of the switch goes to the positive battery post of course.. the other goes to the wire to the brakes so that they get powered on when the switch is closed.  Where you tap onto the brake wire is up to you.  I ran 12 g wire from the switch to the place under the trailer where the brake wire splits off, one to the right and one to the left.  I redid the three way connection and turned it into a four way with 4-way crimp on connector from NAPA.  Coated it all well with liquid electrical tape for weather protection.

ELongest
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7 wire junction box

I usually install a 7 wire junction box just inside the shell where the pigtail enters the trailer. I feed the breakaway wires through the pigtail entrance connector and stuff/seal with butyl tape. The wiring is usually a rats nest in this area and it cleans up the mess. I use ring connectors on the wires. The breakaway wires go between the black (12V) and blue (brake wires). I use to pay about $15 for the box, so it may be cheaper elsewhere.

Eddie

SP0714Thttps://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Spectro/38656.html

Gordon2
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Break away wiring

The junction box is a good thing to do, but more work.  In fact one is on my amazon list now for a future project.

gwander
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Joined: 08/07/2016 - 14:01
I think this will work

ok I took a better look today. I think this will work but want to check with you smart guys! I won’t use the right terms so my apologies!!! If I look at my Scamp there is a hole in the shell at the front where the large cord enters it, that is the cord that is plugged into my 7 connector on the tow vehicle. I went in my Scamp and if I open the access panel under the lower bunk at the front, that cord comes in there and then all the different wires are separated and pigtailed to various other wires running through the Scamp for various systems. My understanding is the brakes are the blue wires. I can fit the wire from the breakaway switch through that same hole, so can I just undo the pigtail on the blue wires there and put in the wire for the breakaway switch there too and re pigtail it? Or do I have to splice it somewhere else?

Gordon2
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That sounds fine, unless

That sounds fine, unless someone has modified the wiring.  It would not hurt to double check. Hook a volt meter to the blue wire and any ground / negative, and measure the voltage when the brake controller is activated.  Voltage should be present when, and only when, the brake controller is suppling power, and the voltage should be close to that displayed on the brake controller if it has such a display (like the P3).

Wite nuts work with a range of wire thickness, and as long as your added wire does not add enough to exceed that, the existing one will be fine. If it feels secure, it probably is.

gwander
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Got it!!!

Great advice, thanks guys!!! I’m proud of myself. I drilled the hole in the frame and attached the breakaway switch, simple Tekonsha one. Took maybe 10 minutes as I took my time. Then bought a connector for one wire, crimped and electric taped it and attached to battery. Then other end I just along the frame with the main 7 wire set thru that hole already in the Scamp then lifted the panel under the front couch and simply took the electric connector off the two blue wires, added the new wire in and put the connector back on with a bit more electric tape. If anyone needs to do this drop me a note it was really pretty easy and I’m not super handy! Then tested by pulling my Scamp with the trailer dolly and pulling the pin on the emergency stop!!!

C2B2
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The blue wire is in there - somewhere

I'm going through the same process, except with a 13 with a front bathroom. Jared at Scamp told me to look for the dark blue wire going into a light blue wire in the mess of connections shown below.  I can do that and fish the break away wire through the 7-pin hole (and hope it doesn't leak water), but I'm a little disturbed by this electrical mess at the bottom of my big closet. Jared wasn't fazed by my photo, but I can't help but wonder if it is safe. Or that a pair of shoes in the bottom of the closet is going to disable my brakes or lights.

Has anyone else found a logical solution to this or am I just being too picky?

Clyde

Clyde & Cecile Bentley - C2B2

  • Columbia, MO
  • 2017 13-foot Scamp
  • Hit the retirement road May 2017
BDeaton
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Rough cut a piece of

Rough cut a piece of cardboard and toss it over the "mess".  Toss your shoes onto the cardboard and go Scampin'.  Quit fussiin'.  Relax and enjoy!!

If you need to do any maintenance there, remove shoes and cardboard for easy access.

We hit the retirement road Nov. 2005.  Still  Scampin' and smilin' 285,000 trailer miles later.  (will admit to slowin' down somewhat recently....smile!!)

Bev & Bob D
2005 13' Scamp  "Lil Critter"
Susanville, CA

C2B2
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Hole in frame

I have the wiring figured out for a breakaway (and zip-tie organized my closet wires), but I have a question about mounting the switch box.  The Scamp frame is "closed" in that it has four sides and a hollow interior.  What is the best way to attach the block? I've considered a 1/4" self-tapping bolt, drilling through both sides of the frame and using a long bolt or mounting it on the side of the frame so I can drill clear through and use a somewhat smaller bolt. I'm concerned about water getting into the frame, but my assumption is that a dab of butyl caulk will protect it.

Also, has anyone found an advantage to where on the frame to mount it.  It seems most natural to put it on the starboard rail, where the 7-pin cable goes.  But putting it on the triangle plate that holds the hitch or the port rail to keep it away from the trailer-to-tug cable also seem logical.

Clyde & Cecile Bentley - C2B2

  • Columbia, MO
  • 2017 13-foot Scamp
  • Hit the retirement road May 2017