Carl, yep, that's what the HW heater bypass valve looks like on our 2016 13. The knurled or scalloped part rotates around the line to open/close the valve. In my somewhat limited experience (we're fairly new Scamp owners), you fill the FW tank, de-pressurize the HW heater by lifting the lever on the HW heater safety valve, turn on the demand pump, then open ONLY a HW faucet on the sink and/or shower (if equipped), you should feel air come out of the faucet while the HW heater fills and forces air up through the HW line, then eventually (after 60 seconds or so??) get water coming out of the faucet; of course, you would also hear the demand pump running. If none of that happens, then the valve is in the closed position. Rotate the valve all the way and try again.
Carl, that looks the same as mine.. 2015 model year Scamp #4. The valve is not a true bypass, it is only a cold water supply line cut off. It shuts off the water supply to the water heater but does not bypass the heater (i.e. supply water to the hot side plumbing while bypassing the heater). I think most of the time when there is a true water heater bypass in a Scamp, it is a user mod.
By the way, that valve in mine started to leak when fairly new. I fixed it by removing the water heater altogether and capping off the lines. And I have not missed it.
Hi, well thank you very much for your replies, I am just bad at understanding plumping and electric. Give me a hunk of wood and i can do wonders though. The reason why i asked is because while i am in tow i could skip filling the HWH and save about 40-50 #' of weight. I have no issues now, but maybe i would if i add to the gear i take along ,sometime in the future. Thanks again, Carl
Carl, yep, that's what the HW heater bypass valve looks like on our 2016 13. The knurled or scalloped part rotates around the line to open/close the valve. In my somewhat limited experience (we're fairly new Scamp owners), you fill the FW tank, de-pressurize the HW heater by lifting the lever on the HW heater safety valve, turn on the demand pump, then open ONLY a HW faucet on the sink and/or shower (if equipped), you should feel air come out of the faucet while the HW heater fills and forces air up through the HW line, then eventually (after 60 seconds or so??) get water coming out of the faucet; of course, you would also hear the demand pump running. If none of that happens, then the valve is in the closed position. Rotate the valve all the way and try again.
2016 13 Scamp Deluxe
TV: 2020 Subaru Ascent Premium
Minnesota
Carl, that looks the same as mine.. 2015 model year Scamp #4. The valve is not a true bypass, it is only a cold water supply line cut off. It shuts off the water supply to the water heater but does not bypass the heater (i.e. supply water to the hot side plumbing while bypassing the heater). I think most of the time when there is a true water heater bypass in a Scamp, it is a user mod.
By the way, that valve in mine started to leak when fairly new. I fixed it by removing the water heater altogether and capping off the lines. And I have not missed it.
Hi, well thank you very much for your replies, I am just bad at understanding plumping and electric. Give me a hunk of wood and i can do wonders though. The reason why i asked is because while i am in tow i could skip filling the HWH and save about 40-50 #' of weight. I have no issues now, but maybe i would if i add to the gear i take along ,sometime in the future. Thanks again, Carl